The Art of Henna: origins, guide, recipe and patterns
The Traditions, the use, the art, and the origins of Arabic/Moroccan Henna
Table of contents
- Intro
- The origins of henna
- Henna as an amulet
- The key difference between Arabic and Indian Henna (mehndi) motifs
- The use of Henna in Arabic culture
- The use of Henna in Morocco
- Berber Henna patterns
- Where Henna is applied in Arabic culture
- The Moroccan-Jewish traditions of using Henna
- The key difference between the Arabic Henna and the Indian Henna ( mehndi)
- Henna: its real color and preparation
- Henna recipe
- The use of henna on hair
Intro
Henna has been a
symbol of good luck, health, and sensuality in the Arab world for over five
thousand years. This means it’s a tradition that has been used by all the
tribes well before Islam has taken over. The plant has been associated with
positive magic and provides us with a link to an ancient age full of good and
bad spirits, baraka (good), and jinn (bad). Generations of women have used a paste made
primarily of dried ground henna leaves to cover their hands and feet with
designs ranging from simple blobs to intricate geometric patterns designed to
ward off evil, promote fertility, and to attract good energy.
Henna is applied in
various types and styles. Henna Paste is made by grounding dry henna leaves and
it’s been used as a natural temporary tattoo by women mostly for special
occasions and celebrations. The decorative patterns applied are often used as
protective amulets predominantly in Arabic and in the Indian cultures. While
Arabic henna designs are often using flower motives Berber and Amazigh henna
include ritualistic signs used as symbols of animals taken from the ancient
Berber animistic beliefs in these symbols protecting from the evil (jinns),
making sure of a bride’s happiness and fertility among other protection. In
this post, I’d like to talk about Moroccan Arabic and Berber/Rifi/Amazigh henna.
Henna's origins
"Henna" comes from the Arabic term
الحناء (al-ḥinnā). The plant from where the henna powder is derived is called
Lawsonia Inermis. Henna has been used as an organic
tattoo for several centuries for decorating the limbs ( hands, arms, and feet)
especially and it’s associated with weddings among other cultural celebrations.
Henna has been used as an addition to make-up to make women even more
attractive. The first historical records of henna go back to the ancient times
of the Egyptian Empire. Egyptians used Henna paste prior to mummification to dye
hands and nails. Then, the use of Henna has become popular in the Roman Empire,
Convivencia-period Iberia and in
other parts of North Africa by the indigenous (Berber) tribes, the
Arabian Peninsula and the Near East. At the same time, Indians attribute henna
to have Indian origins. In India (and Pakistan) henna paste is used
predominantly for weddings by women and to celebrate victories over the enemy (
by men). It’s an Ayurvedic plant that’s antibacterial. henna flower and henna
oil has been used externally as medicine to cure stomach pains, wounds, liver
problems, infections also for curing sleep problems. The seeds of the Henna plant are
used to cure diarrhea among other stomach related pains.
Henna: as an amulet
While the present
generation of Arab women may apply henna for fun, some, especially those with
tribal roots still turn to it for its magical properties. The henna plant has
significant baraka attached to it.
As such it is Halal to apply Henna for decorative reasons. According to a legend
the Holy Prophet Mohammed used henna to
dye his beard and that the henna flower was the Prophet's favorite. As a
result, the use of henna carries special importance in the Muslim world.
in the Arabic world, Henna
is used to protect against witchcraft or the “evil eye” and many of the motifs
used in the henna design are designed to ward off the eye's power. ( See Berber henna
traditions with motives and their meaning). Although this may go against the
teaching of the Quran, it’s still fine due to the above-mentioned reasons.
The key difference between Arabic and Indian Henna (mehndi) motifs
Arabic
henna designs are less dense with designs featuring graceful, usually large,
Floral and vine patterns on the hands and feet. Berber patterns are abstract
and often include the heavy usage of ancient geometrical symbols. Indian mehndi
is more intricate making very dense patterns looking like lace designs. Indian
mehndi designs often cover the entire hands, forearms, feet, and shins.
The use of Henna in Arabic culture
Brides throughout the Arab world still participate in the traditional henna party or ceremony. Henna
is not only decorative but also carries good luck and fertility; it has baraka
and protects against jinns. In some areas, women attend a party shortly before
the wedding during which the bride’s hands and feet are painted with intricate
designs. The henna paste is carefully applied and must remain undisturbed on
the skin for several hours to create a strong dark stain. During this time the
bride is waited on by her friends and family and has a final opportunity to
socialize without the responsibilities of a husband and, ultimately, a family.
In other areas, the henna application can be part of the actual wedding ceremony or
is applied immediately before the ceremony.
Arabic women also get henna for other important occasions and celebrations, the Eid celebrations are some of these, the circumcision celebrations, baby birth celebrations, birthday celebrations can also give a good reason for women to get together and apply henna on each other or ask a henna artist to do so.
The use of Henna in Morocco
In
Morocco, henna is applied symbolically when individuals go through the life cycle
events Moroccans refer to the paste as
henna and the designs as naqsh, which means painting or inscription In Morocco,
there are two types of henna artists: non-specialists, who traditionally
partake in wedding rituals, and specialists, who partake in tourism and do decorative henna Nqaasha, the low-end
Henna specialists are known for attracting tourists, which they refer to as "gazelles" or international tourists, in artisan slang. The famous square Jamaa
El Fna in Marrakech is packed with low-end Henna artists who often overcharge
tourists for their work. Some of the riyads and hotels may help you to get a respected henna artist to do henna for you.
Traditional Moroccan wedding festivals can last up to 5 days, with 2 days involving henna art One of these days is referred to as azmomeg (unknown), and is the Thursday before the wedding where guests are invited to apply henna to the bride The other henna ceremony occurs after the wedding ceremony, called the Day of Henna On this day, typically an older woman applies henna to the bride after she dips in the mikveh to ward off evil spirits who might be jealous of the newlyweds. The groom is also painted with henna after the wedding. During the groom's henna painting, he commonly wears black clothing,
This tradition emerged from the Pact of Umar as the Jews were not permitted to dress similar to the colorful Muslim dress in Morocco.
Berber Henna patterns
The unique geometry of Moroccan Berber design (pictured) is a result of ancient animistic beliefs and Islam's prohibition of artistic depictions of animals or humans. While the Berbers converted to Islam, many still secretly clung to their traditional beliefs. They developed simple geometric representations of animals, which they used without overtly violating Islamic codes. We see these geometric motifs in rugs, ceramics, and jewelry and in henna design.
Where Henna is applied in Arabic culture
Arabs and with this
also Moroccans like to keep henna on the top of the hand area ( palm henna is
generally not a good idea unless one likes to sit still and touch nothing for
many hours) up to the wrist. Berbers however like to apply henna more
abundantly also on the palms. Foot henna also doesn’t go on the soles normally
on the top of the feet concentrating on the small area that may be still visible.
Indians and Pakistani go way overboard applying henna up to the elbows on arms,
on palms, soles, and larger quantities of henna on the feet.
The Moroccan Jewish traditions of using Henna
Many
are not aware that Morocco has quite a large Jewish community. Lots of Jewish
families escaped to Morocco back in the times when Inquisition was at its peak
in Europe. These families found refuge
in numerous Berber tribes in the mountain areas. ( Islamic countries also have
been persecuting the Jewish hence the refuge far from the larger Islamic
cities) The world-famous blue Berber town Chefchaouen is also a Berber-Jewish
town. During these times Jewish families largely assimilated ( partly for real
partly for camouflage) with the Berbers and took on many of their traditions
while also sharing some of theirs with them. This is why, when looking at
Berber traditions, clothing, jewelry you will see lots of similarities when
comparing those with old traditional Jewish traditional jewelry and clothing. They
are the ancestors of today’s Moroccan /Berber -Jewish minority.
Henna
is widely used in Jewish weddings as well, in Morocco.
The
word „Henna” for the Jewish originates from Hen in Hebrew, which means “to find
grace”. And during the wedding ceremony, the fiancée wishes to find favor in
the eyes of her fiancé. In Judaism, the word Henna has an even deeper meaning.
The word ‘Hinnah’ is composed of the initials ‘H – N – H’. These are the first
letters of the three "Mitsvot" of major importance to study by Jewish women in order to be accomplished
by getting married:
Halla: The
henna ball (which is like a ritualistic Moroccan Jewish henna stain) in the
fiancée’s hand is like the small amount of bread dough that the woman has to take
and burn.
Nidda:
Concerns all family purity laws. Similarly to Islamic laws, during her
menstruation, the woman has a special status: she is ”niddah”, in other words:
impure, excluded, rejected (physically, not morally). Henna is celebrated seven
days before her wedding because it is the first time that the girl will count
her seven days of purity. In addition, henna, which has a reddish color,
recalls the color of blood.
Hadlakat Nerot: The lighting of the Sabbath candles, which occurs on Saturdays. According to the Old Testament used both by Jews and Catholics God created the universe in six days to rest on the seventh day. The Sabbath is one of the eternal signs of the covenant between God and the Jew. And that is why the Jew stops all his work as soon as the sun sets on Friday evening to devote himself entirely to god body and spirit on this day of holiness on Saturday. The purpose of lighting candles is to bring peace to the home by adding light.
The key difference between the Arabic Henna and the Indian Henna ( mehndi)
·
Moroccan henna or simply “henna”
is used in the Muslim community while Indian henna, which is called “Mehndi”,
is more widely used in the Hindu community.
· Mehndi and henna are basically
words that refer to the same plant that has been used to dye hair, skin,
leather, wool, and many other products since time immemorial.
· To specify even more: Henna is a dried leaf that is transformed into a ground powder mixed
with water to form a paste. Mehndi is the final product of henna. In other
words, the paste made from dried leaves is called henna.
Henna: its real color and preparation
The color of both the powder and the paste of Henna is green and the color of traditional henna on the skin is red/brown-red after the
dried paste is being washed off. As the henna paste looks remarkably darker
when its applied and during drying, this gave way to misunderstandings
regarding the color of Henna. This is also when natural henna at its darkest, therefore most photos are taken in the early stages of this drying period.
Each artist has her
own recipe and preferred technique of application. Until recently most
artists applied henna using small sticks and only the most experienced artist
could successfully execute a detailed design. Today some artists still use
sticks or toothpicks, though many prefer homemade plastic cones or large
syringes. Both tools make application easier and faster.
Many artists
carefully guard their henna recipes, only passing them on to a chosen relative
or friend. The thickness of the paste determines the ease of application. Too
watery paste means the design will run, and an overly thick paste is difficult to apply. Factors that influence the intensity of the final design include heat,
warmth which darkens the stain, and the length of time the henna paste is left on
the skin. Once the paste is applied it will dry and eventually crack. Some
artists suggest leaving the paste on for an hour or two while others insist on
leaving it on overnight before scraping it off to reveal a stain which darkens
on its own over the next day or so.
Since the original red henna is not so photo and Instagram friendly as other colors, artists have since come up with alternate fake henna which they can paint in black or white colors. These may also cause allergic reactions.
Henna recipe
The preparing of Henna paste involves the use of sugar, lemon juice ( natural) eucalyptus oil. The eucalyptus oil can be switched with cajeput oil ( Indian). You need to beware of lemon juice as that can cause an allergic reaction. Henna overall can cause an allergic reaction, especially when the person applies it is foreign and you have no clue what they used in their paste.
Below I share the recipe I also used:
1. 1 tablespoon of henna powder – you need to
sieve it /filter it well before use to ensure the density will be as good as
possible and no gobs remain. This is essential for proper application.
2. 1/2 lemon’s juice extracted from the
real lemon and filtered well.
3. 30 drops of 100% pure essential oil (choose
between eucalypt, lavender, geranium or teak)
4. 1 tbsp granulated sugar
5. purified water or clear black tea to make
the pastry less dense
You can use more of each ingredient but make
sure to keep the proportions.
Once all the ingredients are added you need to
mix these together ferociously for a good 5 minutes until you get a good,
creamy paste. Cover it up and let it rest for at least half a day. Henna paste
has a very strong distinctive smell. You also need to ensure you put it in a
ceramic bowl without any cracks or so. It would not react well with anything
metal or aluminum. It would color plastic.
The henna has to be of good quality and the paste has to be made properly and has to be applied thoroughly to the cleaned skin ( treated with eucalyptus oil) in order to dry properly and leave a real visible body-painting behind. Many put eucalyptus oil on the skin before application but beginners have to be careful with this as it makes the application harder.
I got allergic reaction to my first henna applied in Morocco which caused me not to dare to want henna applied for a long while. The application of henna is the easiest with a syringe but putting the paste in such is a real fight.
Applicator:
Lots of brands sell their henna with a paper henna applier or cone which doesn’t really work unless you are an expert and plan to use big quantities at once. I’ve lost out on a good amount of henna by wanting to „pour” it in such a paper cone. So, if you are a new starter get a plastic syringe holder or similar-looking applicator that is commonly sold also in pharmacies. plastic applicator squeeze bottles (Jacquard bottles) fitted with small metal tips are also good for beginners. Those are great to use henna in small amounts. The unused henna can be stored in the fridge for weeks.
Ensure you have everything covered when working with Henna or you can easily leave lasting spots and discoloration. Try to use plastic gloves when working with Henna. You can download and cut patterns but I don’t suggest those. What I did is what tattoo artists generally do, in pre-drawing the patterns with a pen. If you make a mistake you only got a few seconds to remove the henna with a wet cloth or cosmetic makeup removing pad without the paste leaving a trace.
The use of henna on hair
As the henna paste is not easy to work with, applying it on hair is very challenging. Again, also cover everything you don’t want to turn red/black/brown in the process. Indians have been using henna the most commonly, not only as a coloring agent but to treat dandruff and to help hair growth. Again, henna may cause allergy to some so it’s always best to patch test before use.
Before choosing your henna design
As written above it’s useful to do a patch test and leave that on for approximately half an hour to ensure you are not allergic to the product on your skin.
It’s good to choose a realistic design which will make your hands look nicer.
Full-on henna would
also paint your nails permanently and it’s not a nice sight.
Henna designs and patterns from around the Islamic world
Please see some of these patterns which can also help you differentiate between the henna style that you see on photos. I hope they can also inspire you to try henna on your own. Keep in mind with tribal henna patterns, that each family and nation can have their own symbols they use.
Many of these work as amulets and are said to provide protection from bad, some of these symbols represent extra blessings like fertility, health, happiness.
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